Bucharest

Through remnants of communism, a revitalization in Bucharest

Romania’s capital city was marred when Nicolae Ceauşescu, the country’s leader from 1965 until 1989, had bulldozers destroy much of the ancient city’s French flavor to replace it with his grotesque communism-inspired architecture—but restoration is underway to recapture Bucharest’s old flavor.

While here, see the monuments and partake of some of the new restaurants and burgeoning nightlife. If travel time is limited, at least hit Biserica Stavropoleos, a church that’s the best example of what is known as Brancovenese architecture (a curvy style blending late-Renaissance with Byzantine motifs); Muzeul Satului, a village museum where you can see craftspeople, old churches, and authentically furnished regional houses; and Muzeul Taranului Roman, a museum with nearly 100,000 artifacts. Also try to see the 19th-century Palatul Cotroceni, where the royal family lived until they were chased out by communists in 1947. It’s lavishly furnished and contains many items left by the fleeing monarchs. Finally, see Palatul Parlamentului, a mammoth contemporary structure that can be blamed on Ceausescu's megalomania; it’s a true Stalinist monstrosity that keeps 7 of its 3,000 rooms open to the public. And yes, that's 24-karat gold on the ceiling.

A side trip to countryside Transylvania reveals Romania’s true charm.

© 2009, Wiley Publishing, Inc.